For his fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection, designer Bibhu Mohapatra turned his attention to the groundbreaking photographer Man Ray and how his imagery played with distortion using techniques like solarization and rayography.
Such distortion became the starting point for makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. “I like the idea of hand-painted photographs, and showing this through makeup. I want no harsh lines on the face,” she said, explaining why she imperfectly glossed eyelids and lightly feathered out the edges of the lips. For the eyes, she applied Maybelline Eye Studio Color Tattoo 24HR Cream Gel Shadow in Bad to the Bronze from the lash lines to the brows, and underneath lower lashes. “I’m then applying Maybelline Shine Sensational in Minty Sheer over the entire eyes to give this dreamy effect,” she said. She prepped the mouth by dabbing on Maybelline SuperStay 14HR Lipstick in Wine and Forever, and then artfully softened the lip line so that the lips “look like a rosebud unfolding from the middle,” she said.
She dressed skin using Maybelline Dream Fresh BB 8-in-1 Beauty Balm Skin Perfector and Maybelline Dream Lumi Touch Highlighting Concealer. Tilbury concentrated her attention on the cheeks, finger-painting Maybelline Dream Bouncy Blush in Rose Petal and Coffee Cake on the apples and all the way up under the eyes. “By doing this placement, it’s more youthful; it doesn’t drag the face down,” she said.
For the updo, hairstylist Amit Abraham zeroed in on a graphic element in Mohapatra’s collection: a honeycomb print. “We’re creating this same pattern in the hair by using a bunch of elastics,” he said. The execution was elaborate. Abraham first prepped hair with L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil Reinforcing Milk and blow-dried it smooth. He then gathered hair into a low ponytail, separated the tail into two sections and placed elastics two inches apart on each section. He twisted the two sections together into a rope, secured them at the bottom and then folded the rope into a bun. “I’m applying new L’Oréal Professionnel True Grip between the elastics for grip and texture, and then sort of pulling the hair a little loose between the elastics to give this honeycomb shape,” he explained. He added that the rest of the hair “contrasts between frothy texture and super-sleek shine," pointing to a deep side part that broke into a tight, pulled-back section that he crimped using a three-quarter-inch curling iron and tucked partially into the bun, leaving the rest to float dreamily as the models walked the runway.
On the nails, manicurist Honey worked in the idea of Art Deco elements. “Bibhu is inspired by the ’30s," she said. "When I looked at the fabrics, I wanted a nail art design that looks graphic and strong." She polished nails in the pale pink Maybelline Color Show Nail Lacquer in Born With It, and then used acrylic black paint to hand-detail a diamond design with a portrait border. “We’re free-handing here, so I opted to use paint rather than polish because it dries so much quicker,” she said. “This nail art design really put the idea of strength and this collection into art form.”
Photos: Karie Frost