New York Fashion Week is drawing to a close, but in no way slowing down in its unveiling of gorgeous beauty looks for spring 2013. At Badgley Mischka and Marc by Marc Jacobs, hair was haphazardly pretty and makeup was crafted to appear simple and sheer. The new nude trend continued to appear on nails at both ready-to-wear presentations. Betsey Johnson, meanwhile, did her own thing, with the hair, makeup and nails sculpting a modern-day Cleopatra that ruled the catwalk. Here is a behind-the-scenes breakdown at each show.
The 1935 film version of A Midsummer Night's Dream was the reference at Badgley Mischka, and the beauty look couldn't have been more fairylike. Hair was whimsical, diaphanous and loose, with wisps floating around the face and some strands crimped to mimic chiffon, a key fabric in the collection. Peter Gray achieved the style by first applying a Moroccanoil volumizing mousse to dampened locks and blow-drying them straight. He created a side part and flattened hair on top, sweeping long bangs over the opposite ear. He then used a small crimper to impart texture. After gently brushing out the crimped strands, he wove a horizontal braid along the back from ear to ear and began anchoring and looping ribbons of hair into it. After setting with Moroccanoil hair spray and shine spray, Gray pinned small pastel flowers into the back for a romantic accent. Makeup was similarly ethereal with a look that makeup artist Tom Pecheux described as "a virgin goddess lost in the woods." All the colors he used were gentle with a see-through effect, he said. After evening out the complexion with a sheer foundation, he created large rosy cheeks with a dusty pastel pink MAC blush that had a shimmery finish. Eyebrows were brushed up and hit with a little dose of color for bushy volume. Pecheux then dotted a shimmery white MAC shadow onto the inner corners of the eyes and framed them with a wash of yellow MAC cream shadow close to the lashes. He skipped mascara because "we wanted to avoid the girls looking like bridesmaids," he explained, and instead coated the inner rims with white MAC eyeliner. Using his finger, he dabbed a pink lipstick onto the mouth to finish the look. For nails, Deborah Lippmann dressed short, round tips with two coats of a mauve polish, which she called "the new nude."
MARC BY MARC JACOBS
The '60s came into play yesterday at Marc Jacobs and today at Marc by Marc Jacobs. Makeup artist Dick Page sparked the mood in the face, which he said had to be honest. "It can't be too pretty," he explained, adding it's all about a feeling of homemade makeup. He applied foundation only where needed and a Shiseido soft gold luminizer to the upper cheeks and under the eyes. Using his fingers, he dabbed a subtle new pink Shiseido rouge in Fantasia onto the lips. He then turned to creating a bold eye. He brushed on a Shiseido shimmering sable cream shadow from the lash lines to the creases, blending and diffusing it at the creases. He next applied Shiseido black cream shadow deep into the lash lines, brushed on a heavy coat of mascara on the upper lashes and then rubbed on a clear Shiseido lip balm to muck up the colors and impart shine on the center of the eyelids and along the lower lash lines. Hairstylist Guido Palau framed the look, using as his starting point Jacobs' colorful scarves that were wrapped about the head for a feeling that he said was '60s via the '80s, when the London music scene was full of cross-cultural inspirations. "When you have a hair accessory, you have to downplay everything else," he explained. "If I worked the hair too much, it would be trite." He first applied Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam to roots to add guts to strands. Then he blow-dried models' locks up and back. He pinned the front of the hair to keep it off the face and under the scarves. Finally he brushed back bottom strands, pulling them together into a loose ponytail about midway down. "I didn't want something too graphic," he said. "I didn't want a knot or a twist." Instead he just coiled the ponytail up onto the crown of the head, tucked in strands and pinned them to hold the look, spontaneously adjusting the technique until he liked the look. "The next one may go on differently," he said. Manicurist Elisa Ferri said Jacobs always requests a custom blend for his shows. For this one, Ferri mixed peachy-yellow and greige Zoya shades for a pale color with "a lot of personality."
It was Betsey Johnson's 70th birthday last night, and her collection (along with the beauty look) was a huge celebration of her. Jon Reyman paid direct homage to the designer by trying to replicate her iconic hairstyle. He first created a center part, then sprayed Aveda hair spray through each section and finally crimped strands all over the head. The result was an intensely textured and piecey look. "What epitomizes a party more than crimped hair?" Reyman said. "You know if you've got crimped hair, you're down to do something crazy." Inspiration for the face came from pinup girls and comic superheroes. Makeup artist Gato began by drawing on graphic black brows, using Maybelline EyeStudio Master Precise Ink Pen Eyeliner. He used the same liner to paint an ultra-thick cat eye. He mixed Maybelline EyeStudio Color Tattoo 24HR Cream Gel Shadow in Audacious Asphalt and Too Cool for a gunmetal cream color that he blended on the inner and outer corners of the eyes. He next added a pop of vibrant yellow pigment on the center of eyes and finished with layer after layer of Maybelline Volum' Express the Falsies Flared mascara on lashes. He heavily applied Maybelline Dream Bouncy Blush in Candy Coral on the cheeks and swiped Maybelline Color Sensational Lipcolor in Very Cherry on the lips. To give the pout what Gato called a "Ferrari look," he patted on red glitter at the end. Matching the glamorous lips were va-va-voom sparkly red nails. Manicurist Gina Edwards used oval imPress press-on nails that she painted with two generous coats of glittery ruby polish.
—Christiana Molina, Jennifer Hirshlag
Photo: David Webber (Mischka main)