Backstage at Giorgio Armani: Not That Innocent

Designer Giorgio Armani crafted his own version of Pink Ladies for his fall 2011 runway show in Milan this week—one that, like the original cool girls of the movie Grease, is simultaneously both soft and strong. With a collection centered around various shades of muted pink including dusty rose, shell, and flesh, the makeup echoed these same romantic tones—with a slightly punky twist. Linda Cantello, international makeup artist for Giorgio Armani Beauty, described the look as "a new sensuality for women. Mr. Armani was talking about women’s fantasies, with the boudoir and the fluffy satin and all that. But he wanted something a bit cooler and more modern for the makeup, so we decided to give it a bit of an edge with slashes of black eyeliner." It all began with a photograph that the designer showed to Linda. "It was of a girl who had nothing on her eyes but Vaseline, black liner, and mascara," she said. "She was laying on her side resting her head on her hand, which caused it to pull at the corner of her eye and create these small lines of shadow. Mr. Armani wanted a similar look for the eyes at his show, so, we recreated it with liner." First, however, Linda gave the eyes a satin-y pink radiance by patting Rouge d'Armani Lipstick in No. 100 (a pinky beige) along the lids, then sweeping the fleshy pink and champagne colors from the brand's Fall 2011 eye shadow palette (out in September) from the lids to the brow bones and under the eyes. Then came the punky twist: Lining the insides of the eyes top and bottom with black pencil, the drawing a straight flick of black from the outer corner of the eye, and another one parallel below it starting from halfway along the bottom lid. For a flirty finish, Linda curled the lashes and applied Eye To Kill Excess Mascara. The rest of the makeup was sheer and luminous. Linda blended High Precision Retouch No. 2 with Fluid Sheer No. 2 (a luminous nude) and patted the highlighter mix on the forehead, cheekbones, nose, and chin. She then applied a mix of two new fall shades of Rouge d'Armani Lipstick—Beige No. 108 and Pink 525 (both out in September)—on the mouth. Paired with hairstylist Oribe's wispy, casual knot, the entire look had the kind of easy, youthful elegance that never goes out of style. PHOTOS COURTESY OF GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY


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