There are some beauty looks that simply should not be attempted blindly. Remember the first time you tried cheek stain and you ended up with a red dot tattooed to the center of your cheek? (We hope that wasn’t just us!) Dramatic cut crease eye makeup is one of those techniques that require the instruction of a professional. But what exactly is the cut crease technique? Well, like the name implies, the technique is used to the give the eyes a really dramatic, defined crease. You simply “cut” the crease of the eye with a sharp line of intense color. Done right the look is pure glamour. But when it goes wrong, it can go oh-so-wrong. We enlisted the help of professional makeup artist Colleen Runne, to help us master this makeup technique.
Use the Right Tools
“The brushes are key to creating an "expert" application and finish to a cut crease look. When you have great brushes, you can make inexpensive makeup have a flawless finish,” says Runne. For the crease try a small, flat and firm brush like Make Up For Ever Precision Eyeliner Brush or Lancôme Precision Shadow Brush. For blending Runne recommends a small tapered brush like NARS Small Dome Eye Brush or Make Up Forever Precision Smudger Brush.
To achieve the look you need a range of shades, so Runne finds eye shadow trios and quads are the way to go. Shiseido Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trios, Tom Ford Beauty Eye Color Quads, and L’Oréal Colour Riche Eye Shadow compacts are all great choices for rich hues.
Apply Like a Pro
To achieve the look, start with a medium toned shadow and apply it on the eyelid from the lash line to the crease and along the lower lash line. Then create a sharp crease using a precision brush and the darkest shade. “Follow the shape of your natural crease making a single line of color ending just before your upper lash line.”
Expert Tip: If you have hooded eyelids, keep your eyes open when applying the crease shade. It helps you create the illusion of a crease.
Now it’s time to blend. “The key to achieving a professional look is blending the line upward toward your eyebrow–blending and diffusing, but maintaining the weight of the line in the crease,” Runne notes.
Highlight just under the brow bone using the lightest shade and line both the upper and lower lash line with the dark crease shadow. For more intensity, Runne likes to dampen the brush slightly. Finish with a few generous coats of mascara (we love the big volume lashes we get from Yves Saint Laurent Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils Shocking).
Will you try the cut crease eye? Let us know below.