When is one lipstick enough to create an entire makeup look? When it's a richly saturated, razzmatazz shade of berry. That was the magic formula at Yves Saint Laurent's spring '11 show in Paris this week, where the dramatic lips were accompanied by little else in the way of makeup. "It's fresh to focus on the mouth and leave the eyes mostly bare," says Lloyd Simmonds, Yves Saint Laurent's international makeup artist (though he did not do the makeup at the show). "It's a great look for evening because it makes a statement, but it's not overdone or fussy." Of course, even a look this simple needs some tweaking for real life. "Well I don't recommend bleaching your brows the way they did at the show," says Lloyd. "You could also add a little more definition around your eyes if you want, but keep the attention on your mouth," he says. "That's what makes this look so striking." Read on for Lloyd's tips on how to recreate this look.
SKIN: To even out the skin and cover imperfections, Lloyd recommends a bit of lightweight foundation and concealer (such as Teint Radiance Foundation and Touche Éclat) where needed, but stresses, "Keep the skin as natural as possible." Then, add a bit of healthy gleam by brushing a pinky-nude highlighter such as Péché No. 1 L'Éclat Powder on your eyelids and temples.
EYES: For the show, the models had nothing on their eyes except for a pinch of mascara. But if you feel uncomfortable without eye makeup on, Lloyd says you can add subtle definition with a superthin line of black pencil along your top lash line for and a defining mascara (meaning one that's not volumizing or lash building—try Everlong Mascara). "But don't do any more than that," he says. "You don't want to take away from the pureness of this look."
CHEEKS: Models can get away with wearing a dark lip color and no blush, but for the rest of us, a pale peach or soft pink cheek color, such as Blush Variation in No. 2 Pink Bloom, is essential to keep from looking washed out.
LIPS: "It's precisely designed," says Lloyd of the dramatic mouth at the YSL show. For a similar look, go with a deep wine lipstick that's shimmer-free and slightly creamy—Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick on No. 8 Belle De Rose is a good choice. Line your lips first with a pencil that matches the lipstick color (in this case, that's Lip Liner No. 3). "This helps you create a perfect application and keeps the lipstick from bleeding," says Lloyd. Then, use a lip brush to put on the lipstick—"It gives more control over the shape than swiping it on straight from the tube," he says. Blot the first coat, dust a light amount of face powder on your lips, then reapply another coat (but this time, don't blot or powder). It may sound counterintuitive to put lipstick on top of powder, but Lloyd assures, "You'll get an incredibly density of color, but with that second coat of creamy lipstick, the finish won't look heavy." And though at the show the lip color was topped in a high-shine gloss, Lloyd warns against this for real life. "Gloss breaks down lipstick and causes it to run, so skip it," he says. "Besides, Rouge Pur Couture has such a beautiful satin finish, you don't even need gloss."
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