New York Fashion Week: Jeremy Scott
“Desperately Seeking Susan meets California goth” was the idea in mind for the beauty look at Jeremy Scott’s fall 2013 ready-to-wear show. Channeling the collection’s interpretation of west coast skater boys in the late ’80s and early ’90s—complete with messy monsters and neon checkerboard prints—makeup, hair and nails collectively showcased a grungy SoCal punk look.
There was only one adjective makeup artist Kabuki had in mind when he set out to paint his faces for Jeremy Scott: “rad.” Inspired by The Joker to reflect Scott’s monster prints, Kabuki paired a softened magenta lip with and a graphic neon green eye. “There’s a play between the graphic and the soft here to provide the right impact,” he said. “The graphic eye needs something to rebel against.”
First, Kabuki perfected the skin with MAC Matchmaster SPF 15 Foundation for a natural but flawless finish. Then focusing his attention on eyes, Kabuki mixed MAC Chromacake in Black Black with water and drew a lightning bolt shape on the outer corners with an artist’s paint brush. “The brush allows the perfect flow of paint and water without drying too fast,” he revealed. He then painted on an impactful neon green swoop across creases with a mixture of Chromacakes in True Chartreuse and Landscape Green. Skipping mascara and leaving the brows and eyelids bare (save for subtle definition in the inner water lines by the brand’s Technakohl Liner in Graphblack), Kabuki continued to add softness to the face with diffused magenta lips. He smeared MAC Liptick in Up The Amp onto the pout with a lip brush, being careful not to create too delineated an edge, then reapplied the color onto the center of lips with his finger to dial up the clash.
Referencing the trending backlash to the luxury market, hairstylist Eugene Souleiman created a youthful and rebellious look that was meant to have “no regimented structure.” His style revolved around black faux-hawk wigs that contrasted between the models’s natural hair color to “create tension.”
Souleiman began by tightly pulling the hair back into a ponytail at the nape of the neck and vertically folding the lengths against the middle of the head from the bottom up, which he secured with bobby pins. Souleiman then fitted the custom pre-cut wig to the model’s hair and clipped it in place. To inject the wig with matte, pliable texture and volume, he sprayed Wella Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Hairspray to the roots and blasted it with a blow-dryer while massaging the hair for a haphazard effect. Souleiman next spritzed Wella Create Character Texturizing Spray to the wig for extra hold, sweeping the longer pieces in front of the face and maneuvering the shorter pieces on top to stand straight up. He finished with a mist of Wella Shimmer Delight Shine Spray to the wig for a light overall glossiness.
In order to counterbalance the more macabre elements of the garments and reflect the collection’s neon palette, manicurist Patti Yankee painted nails with bright pops of color. After prepping natural-shaped tips with a base coat, she lacquered on two coats of fluorescent orange, yellow, blue, green or purple colors from her new nail polish line. In an effort to make the manicures seem more careless, she nixed a glossy top coat in favor of an edgier matte one.