New York Fashion Week: Marchesa
With the Oscar’s now only days away, the importance of showcasing starlet-worthy gowns surely couldn’t have been lost on Marchesa when Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig designed their fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection. And with exquisitely draped duchesse satin concoctions galore drawn from 18th-century romanticism, there’s no doubt that celebrity stylists are already ringing phones off the hook to get their paws on some of the gowns. The beauty look, however, juxtaposed the pure maximalism of the collection with a decidedly anti-red carpet take for its theme. While the garments may have been all about aristocratic opulence, the beauty at Marchesa took inspiration from more youthful and angelic roots.
To offset the heavily embellished occassionwear, makeup artist Gucci Westman crafted “super-clean” makeup that focused on a beautiful complexion and rosy cheeks. She achieved a quality of perfected skin by first prepping the face with Revlon PhotoReady Perfecting Primer and buffing skin with Revlon Nearly Naked Makeup. After highlighting the face with Revlon Illuminance Creme Shadow in Not Just Nudes for a stunning candlelit glow, she used the same cream pallette to softly sculpt the sockets of eyes. Next, Westman defined eyes with the thinnest black line against top lashes using the brand’s Colorstay Liquid Liner starting at the middle of the upper lash lines that dragged out to the ends. She then brushed PhotoReady 3D Volume Mascara on lashes and filled in brows for a stronger furrow. Finally, Westman tapped Baby Stick in Passion (to be released in April) onto the apples of cheeks for a healthy flush and finished with dusty rose lips attained by ColorBurst Lip Butter in Pink Truffle.
Hairstylist Odile Gilbert continued to riff on the youthful theme with a “controlled but imperfect” updo. She first prepped the lengths of dampened hair with Kérastase Resistance Ciment Thermique and Kérastase Resistance Mousse Volumactive for a voluminous and airy texture before blow-drying it with her hands. She sectioned off hair from below the ears and formed a french braid that snaked from side to side, which she used as a shelf to better hold the updo’s bobby pins to come.
Next, Gilbert drew a side part and swept fringe over one ear in a “Twiggy”-esque fashion. She then twisted the section over the braid at the base of the neck and into a wide chignon, which she secured with pins. After repeating the same step on the opposite side of the part, Gilbert set the style with Kérastase Resistance Double Force Controle Ultime hairspray. Finally, she pulled out a couple strands around the face for a softer and slightly disheveled look.
To play up the dichotomy between the angelic beauty look and the theatrical gowns, manicurist Jin Soon Choi used two different colors on fingers and toes. After prepping short and rounded nails with a base coat, she painted on the thinnest sheet of the pale pink Revlon ColorStay Longwear Nail Enamel in Pale Cashmere on fingers to keep the shade from looking chalky. “We scraped off the liquid till there was almost nothing left for the sheerest coat,” she explained of the innocent color. To directly represent the dramatic collection, toes were painted with two coats of the deep scarlet Nail Enamel in Velvet Rope, after which both sets of nails were sealed with a top coat.