Makeup artist Dusty Hunter sees many potential sides to the women he meets. This month he joined us as a guest to express that philosophy in makeup. He turned to a friend of his to create an ultimate girl-next-door to glam makeover for his first Makeup.com "Beauty Dare."
The first time I met Jeanine Kuehn I was struck by her gracious demeanor and wholesome “girl next door” beauty. The first time I heard Jeanine curse, you could have knocked me over with a feather! Incidentally, that’s also the moment I decided I wanted to work with her.
Her personal style is classic with an easygoing kind of professionalism. When I spoke with her about makeup, I got the impression of necessity over luxury; Jeanine suffers from red, patchy skin, which is her focus when it comes to beauty. Like many people who use cosmetics as camouflage, Jeanine does have a desire to try something more exciting, but feels restricted by her “problem areas” and is overly cautious. Jeanine’s makeup no-nos are more “can’t” than “won’t.”
To challenge her beauty routine, I opted to create a classic Marilyn Monroe look for her, updated with modern textures to keep it from looking too much like a costume.
Here are the steps I followed for her transformation:
Step 1: After moisturizing Jeanine's face, I applied a primer. Giorgio Armani Light Master Primer provides a beautiful opalescent sheen to skin, and the lightweight texture is a suitable alternative to Monroe’s petroleum-jelly method for achieving a glowing complexion.
Step 2: To build coverage, I started off by smoothing on YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat Illuminating Foundation, followed by MAC Studio Fix Fluid SPF 15 stippled onto the ruddy areas. Then I spot-concealed with Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv Intensive Concealing Duo.
Step 3: I set skin with Purely Cosmetics Diamond Perfect Finish transparent powder and, using the same brush, swept on Estée Lauder Pure Color Blush in Sensuous Rose (a must-have for pale complexions).
Step 4: Eyebrows should frame and lift the face. I like them soft and full (never underestimate the power of full brows to make you look at least five years younger!). I filled in Jeanine’s brows and defined them with Estée Lauder Pure Color EyeShadow in Wild Truffle. I followed this with Anastasia Tinted Brow Gel in Granite and Maybelline Great Lash Clear Mascara, which is brushed through the hairs in an upward motion.
Step 5: I swept Maybelline Eye Studio Color Tattoo Metal 24HR Cream Gel Shadow in Barely Branded across Jeanine's lids, from her lashes to brows. To shape her eye with contours and highlights, I also used neutral ivory and taupe shadows.
Step 6: I lined top lashes with a black gel eyeliner. Winged eyeliner isn’t the hardest thing in the world to grasp; it just takes practice and, above all else, conviction! Draw that line like you mean it! The slower you go, the shakier your hand and the messier the job. It helps to do your liner before foundation, too. If you make a mistake, you can clean the edges with makeup remover and a cotton swab without messing up your base. Try: Lancôme Liner Design Long Wear Calligraphy Gel EyeLiner in Black Fishnets.
Step 7: I cut two sets of inexpensive strip lashes in half and doubled them up before applying them to the outer portion of Jeanine's lids. Then I layered on an ultra-black mascara. Try: L'Oréal Paris Voluminous Carbon Black Mascara.
Step 8: Monroe used several shades of red for her trademark pout. I’m using one: Giorgio Armani Lip Maestro in 400 provides the perfect red lip. The modern velvety texture (often referred to as “liquid matte”) drags the classic red lip kicking and screaming into 2013!
It’s moving to see someone be brave enough to remove all their makeup and expose—on camera, nonetheless—what they work every day to conceal. It is doubly so to watch them spring to life once the makeup is done, even though it’s not what they’re accustomed to.
The transformation was fully apparent during the photo shoot when I watched Jeanine laughing, tossing her hair around, playing with her outfit and moving effortlessly from ingénue to femme fatale at a moment’s notice. When she arrived at my studio she was nervous. When she left she said, “Let’s do this again!”
Photos: Dustin Hunter