New York Fashion Week: Naeem Khan
It was all about the ’20s at Naeem Khan’s fall 2013 ready-to-wear show, but this decade didn’t roar in the collection as much as it just uttered its presence. Sure, there were still the obvious flapper-era elements of finger waves, bold brows and vampy nails. But the beauty look was shook up to bring it into the 21st century.
With Lady Mary from Downton Abbey in the back of his mind, makeup artist James Boehmer nodded to the decadent ’20s with strong brows and “lived-in” eyes. To etch his dark face-framing furrows, Boehmer drew the new NARS Brow Perfector (available in August) through hairs for definition and then deepened the color with NARS Matte Eyeshadow in Coconut Grove. He rounded the brows at the arch, and extended and pulled them down at the ends to maintain a classic shape from the era. He topped the start of the brows with NARS Brow Gel “to keep them from looking really penciled in,” said Boehmer.
Beyond the bold furrows, Boehmer diffused the rest of the color on the face to reference the soft lighting in silent films. He conjured up his rumpled eyes with multiple layers of NARS Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara on top and bottom lashes. After pushing the wand into the base of the bottom fringe, he blended the black shade from NARS Duo Eyeshadow in Pandora under the lash lines to “delicately bring the eye downward.” He then created luminous skin with a mix of NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer and Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30. He next tapped NARS Blush in Zen onto the apples of cheeks for healthy-looking color. Boehmer finally ran the concealer onto lips to pale them out before “thumb-printing” the center of the pout with the champagne NARS Eye Shadow Duo in Alhambra for a sheer highlight.
Referencing a photo of finger waves as his inspiration, hairstylist Rolando Beauchamp created his updated ’20s updo by first wetting hair and treating ends with Bumble and Bumble BB Prep to detangle locks. He then drenched the mane in Bumble and Bumble BB Gel, drew a deep side part and used the tail of a comb to mold the finger waves only in front to frame the face. “So much gel in the hair like this makes it work like clay,” he explained. Beauchamp next pulled the lengths back into a low ponytail and braided the ponytail from base to tip. He finally coiled the braid around into a bun and locked it in place with U-shaped pins.
“Devil red” was the color manicurist Michelle Saunders said Khan had in mind for nails, which she translated to be the hue of “dried blood.” To get the look, Saunders painted one coat of the sheer black Essie Nail Polish in Licorice on natural-shaped nails, followed by a coat of the burgundy Bordeaux on top. A layer of Essie Good to Go Rapid Dry Top Coat sealed these vampiest of tips.