The cool quotient of pastel eye shadow previously ranked around the same level as sweater sets and Lifetime movies. But the punchy, full-throttle version seen in Miu Miu's fall 2010 ad campaign (shown above and below) has me reconsidering its potential. Style.com's Beauty Counter blog ran a great item today about how makeup artist Lucia Pieroni created the ads' vibrant eye makeup. With "bold pastel" (which kind of seems like an oxymoron, no?) serving as her inspiration, Pieroni swirled makeup paint pigments all around the eyes first, then swept Shu Uemura eye shadow in either jade or lilac on top, swishing it all the up to the brow bones and under the eyes. (Looks to me like she used Gem Glam Pressed Eye Shadow in Pearl Pastel Sea Green 450 and Gem Glam Cream Eye Shadow in Pearl Light Purple.) Pieroni explained to Style.com: "When working with bright pigments, it’s important to use a sponge applicator to build up an opaque coverage, then use a soft brush to feather out the edges."
While I can't imagine many will copy the full-on smoky eyes from the ads, I love the idea of sweeping a vibrant pastel shadow on your lids for fall. Such girlie color suddenly seems fresh and downtown because it's so unexpected that time of year. If you decide to try the look, two tips to keep in mind:
1. Pastel shadow can sometimes makes eyes appear smaller, so follow Pieroni's lead and finish the look with lots of black mascara to anchor the color.
2. Purples such as lilac and lavender are generally the most flattering pastel shades. Baby blue works on most skin tones, though it can make very fair skin look sallow. And jade green, though gorgeous, is by far the most daring pastel and definitely not for wallflowers.
PHOTOS FROM FASHION GONE ROGUE