February 12, 2013 Makeup.com Looks

New York Fashion Week: Theyskens' Theory

Makeup artist James Kaliardos had the future on his mind backstage at the fall 2013 ready-to-wear show for Theyskens' Theory. If his vision of it is to come true, ten or twenty or hundred years from now we will be living in a very pretty place indeed. "In this future, this girl has vitamins infused into her body during the nighttime and machines to monitor that—and the result is this incredibly perfect skin," he said.
For the here and now, he translated this idea with what he called no-color makeup. "It's about skin that is built up, perfecting what the girls already have," Kaliardos said. He created this look by first massaging MAC Prep + Prime Skin Brightening Serum into models's complexions. He then added a smoothening powder that he said makes the face appear "retouched and gives it a hazy, diffused look." He next brushed on on MAC Prep + Prime BB Beauty Balm SPF 35 and added pinky-peach concealer where needed. To accentuate the contours of the face, he dashed MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Accentuate on the high plains of the face and MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Coffee Walnut under the cheekbones. He next touched up the eyes by brushing up brows and setting them with MAC Clear Brow Set, by painting MAC Chromagraphic Pencil in Nude in the waterlines, adding a subtle burnt coral to lids and skipping mascara. He finally evened out lips, covering them with MAC Lip Erase in Dim and just a hint of color from a new MAC Au Naturel lipstick palette.

Hairstylist Odile Gilbert conceptualized her version of the future by finding inspiration in the past—specifically women's hair in medieval and Renaissance paintings. "We are doing really flat hair, with a super-clean middle part, a section at the front that is like a headband and the back almost like a veil," she said. "It's all about accentuating the architecture of the face and the very different kinds of beauty."
To assemble the look, she first parted dry hair. She then took the entire front sections of the hair and smoothed them back, tucking them behind the ears and tying them in a ponytail at the nape of the neck. She next applied Kérastase Ciment Thermique to the remainder of strands and flat-ironed lengths for a high-sheen finish. For hold, she spritzed on Kérastase Double Force hair spray.

Manicurist Jin Soon Choi gave nails a "modern, clean, chic" look, applying one coat of a pinkish-white Jin Soon Nail Polish in Tulle and two layers of top coat for an intense glossiness.

Photos: Makeup.com



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