New York Fashion Week: Zac Posen
Taking a cue from the powdery Nemo landscape outdoors, makeup artist Kabuki created “snow queen” eyes for Zac Posen’s fall 2013 ready-to-wear show that looked perfectly elegant with the models’s soft chignons.
To create the “vanilla and ethereal” eye that Kabuki said brought to mind Tilda Swinton, the makeup artist began by highlighting lids with a mix of MAC Paint in Untitled and MAC Eye Shadow in Gesso. He drew along the upper lash lines the thinnest stripe of MAC Penultimate Liner, and then topped lashes with MAC Haute & Naughty Lash mascara and the spiky MAC 33 Lash faux lashes so the stark look “didn’t turn alien.” To brighten eyes, he lined the water lines with MAC Chromographic Pencil in NC15.
In order to balance the delicate eyes and bring out the strong jewel tones of the collection, Kabuki sculpted rich burgundy lips. He started by dabbing lip balm onto the center of the pout and delineating lips with MAC Lip Pencil in Vino. He then placed a tissue over the mouth and pressed loose powder onto lips to set the liner. He next meticulously painted MAC Lip Mix in Burgundy onto the center of lips with a lip brush and thinned it out toward the edges to prevent bleeding.
Kabuki evened out the complexion with MAC Matchmaster Foundation and dusted MAC Mineralize Skin Finish in Lightscapade as a highlighter on the front of the cheeks for a natural glow. He finished with a darker shade of MAC Skinfinish Mineralize Natural powder used to shape the cheekbones and temples.
“A modern and easy chignon with a bit of personality” was how hairstylist Luigi Murenu described his invention. To create his glamorous, deconstructed style, he first raked John Frieda Luxurious Volume Volume Building Mousse into damp hair to build rich texture and thickness and then blow-dried it. Murenu next crimped the entire head with a micro-crimper, using a soft nibbing technique to give lengths a wispy, feather-like quality. After brushing locks out with a Mason Pearson brush, he gathered hair into a ponytail at the nape of the neck, being sure to leave a bit of volume on top while sides were pulled taut. Murenu separated the ponytail into two sections and twisted them to the ends. He then coiled the twist around into a knot and pinned it in place, leaving a few pieced strands out so that the micro-crimps were visible. Murenu next pulled out two strands from the sideburns and micro-crimped them again so that they’d fly on the runway. He finally set the entire look with John Frieda Luxurious Volume All-Day Hold Hairspray.
To match the dark and dramatic lips, manicurist Michelle Saunders used a deep burgundy shade on tips. “There’s something edgy about a dark lip and nail with an elegant gown,” she said. After prepping nails with Essie Ridge Filling Base Coat, Saunders painted on two coats of Essie Nail Polish in Carry On on natural-shaped nails. She topped them off with a coat of Essie Good to Go Rapid Dry Top Coat.