Sep 15, 2010
There's been such a strong '60s influence in the hair and makeup looks this week that I keep expecting Twiggy to pop up on a runway at any moment. But at the Chris Benz show on Monday, makeup artist Daniel Martin quietly nodded to the era rather than copying it full on, and the result was soft, pretty makeup that felt classic yet also completely right for now. Working with early samples from Lancôme's spring 2011 makeup collection, Daniel crafted a pink-and-lavender look inspired by '60s French pop singer Frances Gall. "Frances captures the true free-spirit vibe of that decade," said Daniel. "She always did something cool with her eye makeup, so we wanted to create that feeling but not in such a literal '60s way. This look has the influence, but it's fresher and more wearable." To create a realistic version of the vintage look, Daniel focused on softly defined eyes. To start, he scribbled white eye pencil (Le Crayon Khôl in Blanc) all over the lids. "This cuts the shimmer in the shadow I'm applying on top so you get more of a frosted effect," he said. That shadow was the pale lavender shade from Lancôme Color Design Minérale Eye Shadow Quad in Cool Lavande (launching next spring), which he brushed on top of the pencil and swept up to the brow bone and slightly out past the eyes. He then drew a thin stripe of black liquid liner (Artliner in Noir) along the top lash line and even used it to rim the inside of the bottom lash line. "You get the same lived-in effect with a liquid liner as you would with pencil, but it doesn't smear as much and lasts longer," Daniel said. And the liquid liner tricks didn't end there: Next he used it to make tiny dots of black right underneath the bottom lashes from the inner corner to the outer one. "It's a bit of an optical illusion," he said. "From a distance, it makes the bottom lashes appear longer and thicker." He finished by piling on Hypnôse Volume Mascara both the top and bottom lashes, exclaiming, "The clumpier, the better!" The rest of the makeup focused on polished skin—"Not too dewy but not too matte,” said Daniel—achieved with Teint Miracle foundation, softly contoured cheeks (he swept Blush Subtil in Mauve Coquette under the cheekbones), and lilac-pink lips (L’Absolu Rouge lipstick in Lily Rose, launching next spring). To complete the purple theme, manicurist Lisa Logan coated the nails in bright violet polish, a new Lancôme shade called Violet Groove (launching next spring). With a side-parted undone bun by Redken hairstylist John Ruidant, the models looked youthful, bright-eyed, and thoroughly modern.


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