New York Fashion Week Backstage Beauty Diary: Day 4
The trends are solidifying. While hair, makeup and nails have been incredibly diverse from one show to the next, a few themes are threading together to form a clear beauty forecast for spring 2013. On the fourth day of New York Fashion Week, textural hairstyles continue to be a big story. The new rougher and frizzier strands that made headlines last season are now being paired with smoother locks—and the thoughtfully placed braid or twist—for an all-in-one look that is elaborate in its assembly and completely carefree in its attitude. Makeup is mixing things up, as well. Mascara, that one product that most women will always apply before leaving home, was absent at several presentations. Sheer washes of color are instead opening up eyes. Complexions, meanwhile, are dewy and glowing and positively luminescent. Finally, hands are waving bye-bye to those elaborate designs that have become so wildly popular over the last year. Pale hues are becoming the manicure must-have. Here are the behind-the-scenes reports from Derek Lam, Victoria Beckham, Diane von Furstenberg, Timo Weiland and Zac Posen.
DEREK LAM To complement the powerful, vibrant collection of Derek Lam, the beauty look went the opposite route with a more subtle approach. There was color in the makeup, but it was kept sheer so as not to compete with the clothes. After blending on transparent foundation and filling in brows, makeup artist Tom Pecheux applied light washes of matte green and shimmery silver Estée Lauder cream shadows from the lashes to brows. Skipping mascara, he tapped a shimmery pink blush onto the center of lids. "It reminds me of a sunrise on a lake," he said. He finished using a pink blush to contour underneath cheekbones and a coral-champagne cream shadow to make lips pale. For hair, Orlando Pita said the easy look was inspired by a "young, modern, urban woman without any references to the past." Pita prepped strands with a volumizer and blow-dried them, using his fingers to create a wavy texture. He then applied a defrizzer sparingly. After creating a deep side part, he tucked front strands behind the ears and spritzed hair spray on his hands to smooth down any flyaways. Nails were painted with a shimmery sandy beige Estée Lauder polish. Manicurist Jin Soon Choi explained that this particular neutral was chosen because of its slight glimmer, which flatters all skin tones.
VICTORIA BECKHAM The best model of beauty for a Victoria Beckham show is the designer herself, and lead stylist Guido Palau sourced the fashion icon's ability to look effortless yet luxe at the same time. “My aim is to have the hair look easy with a richness to it, so I’m doing a dual-texture style and using my products like cosmetics,” he said. He prepped hair with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam and then blow-dried it. A clean center parting was kept flat and tight to the head. Redken Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist provided high gloss at the crown while the ends became fluffier with Redken Powder Refresh 01 dry shampoo. “I’m using the matte and gloss in the hair like highlights. And this style has to have some gloss; Victoria loves gloss,” he said. Sculpting facial angles gave the makeup the V.B. touch. “It’s all about using light and dark to emphasize and highlight features,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal. Defined brows complemented eyes tightly lined with Maybelline Eye Studio Master Precise Ink Pen Eyeliner in Black. Kendal accented lids in two shades of charcoal while keeping lashes bare. For a nearly nude mouth, a hit of balm and a few finger-dabs of Maybelline Dream Lumi Touch Highlighting Concealer in Radiant kept lips unfussy. The look came together with nails lacquered in a custom-blend of CND Colour in Putty and Desert Suede, a nude tone that lead nail tech Roxanne Valinoti said “acts like a tinted moisturizer: translucent coverage that erases any imperfections.”
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG Taking its cue from the ready-to-wear collection that was about freeing women to be the best versions of themselves, the beauty look at Diane von Furstenberg was entirely individualized. Hair was styled in whatever manner looked ideal on each model, with a center part and then some textured and wavy strands and some smooth and straight strands. Hairstylist Orlando Pita said his inspiration for the look centered on "empowering women and enhancing their own beauty." Following suit, makeup was tailored to the natural features of each girl. Foundation was applied dot by dot, only where needed, while blush was paired to each complexion. The eyes were the unifying feature on all the models. Makeup artist James Kaliardos used a MAC highlighter pen on the lid to lighten it and a MAC smoky reddish-brown shadow on the lower lash line to darken it. He continued to emphasize eyes by gluing three separate false lashes on outer corners and layering multiple coats of mascara on top and bottom lashes. Kaliardos then skipped eyeliner, brushed up brows and finished with a touch of conditioner on lips. Last, nails were clean and buffed with a single coat of Essie Nail Polish in Allure on the hands, while toes saw a pop of peach with Essie Nail Polish in Van D'Go to complement the shoes.
TIMO WEILAND Nineties hip-hop was the basis for the look at Timo Weiland. Hair went with high and tight ponytails that were crimped with an iron to parallel the zigzag patterns in the clothing. In order to give the ponytail an update for spring, hairstylist Joseph DiMaggio created overlapping twists at the top of the head. To start, he worked L'Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil Milk into strands for a smoother texture. He then added long extensions, and separated hair into top and bottom sections. He secured the bottom half into a ponytail. He next doused the front in lacquering L'Oréal Professionnel Finishing Infinium 3 Strong Hold Working Spray and began to form the twists, adding them one-by-one into the ponytail. As a final step he used L'Oréal Professionnel Perfect Shimmer Shine Illuminating Mist on the ends for lustrous definition. Makeup artist James Boehmer translated the inspiration with a strong brow that referenced early-'90s supermodels. "But it's not arched," he clarified. "It's a straight brow that has a sporty, heroic feeling." He also added a burst of color on eyes by lining them with a NARS eye shadow he described as "smurf blue." He achieved the look by dampening an angled brush and pressing the color closely into the lash line, which was slightly hidden by mascara on the top and bottom lashes. On skin that was evened out with tinted moisturizer and a little powder, he blended a peachy-gold cream blush into the cheekbones, temples and hairline and on top of the ears for visible warmth. Using a champagne lip pencil, he then overdrew the lip line, filled in the lips and swiped on a peachy-beige lipstick. He topped the mouth off with layer after layer of beige gloss to make them appear like they were dripping wet. For nails, Pattie Yankee created a French manicure with a twist. She applied Dashing Diva taupe polish appliqués on the tips and cured them with gel for domelike shine.
Zac Posen's beauty team was thinking about Grace Kelly when creating the look for his show. For makeup artist Kabuki, this meant a defined brow and doe-like eyes, created using a plush strip of lashes. He stayed away from specific colors for the face, instead working with adaptable MAC shades that would flatter each skin tone. Nails also took into consideration each individual complexion. Four neutral shades were used: the taupe Essie Nail Polish in Glamour Purse for darker skin tones, the beige and dusty pink Essie Nail Polish in Brooch the Subject and Not Just a Pretty Face on medium hands, and a peachy Essie Nail Polish in A Crewed Interest on fair models. Hair, meanwhile, hugged the scalp in front and fell into cascading waves in the back. "It looks like a beautiful mermaid," said hairstylist Luigi Murenu. He began by adding extensions and working a John Frieda mousse from the middle of a damp mane to the ends to seal in curl. After blow-drying, he created a graphic middle part. He then formed retro waves by coiling each section of hair around a one-inch curling iron held horizontally and then brushing out strands. He finished by tucking the front sections behind the ears and spritzing shine-enhancing hair spray for a high-gloss sheen.
—Christiana Molina, Karie Frost
Photo: Courtesy of L'Oréal Professionnel/Charles Sykes