Last week, I asked what you thought of spring's vibrant red and pink eye makeup trend. The consensus was, it's very pretty, but how do you wear these colors around your eyes without looking like you're having an allergy attack? I decide to direct this question to Lloyd Simmonds, Yves Saint Laurent's international makeup artist, for a pro's take on the matter.
My first question to Lloyd is, Why would I cover my lids in pink shadow when I spend a good five minutes every morning trying to cover up the pinkness around my eyes? "Because it's been a long, gray winter and you need to have fun with makeup again," he replies with the same kind of up-and-at-'em! enthusiasm my mother would use to try and coax me out of bed early on a Sunday. Of course it's easy for a model like Ginta Lampina to experiment with color and still look gorg—that's her above in YSL's spring makeup campaign wearing the hot pink shadow from YSL 5 Colour shadow palette on No. 10 Bohemian Chic (a shade that's available only in Europe and Asia). But won't the rest of us look kind of ridiculous wearing fuchsia eye makeup? "Not at all!" Lloyd tells me. "The great thing about pink is that it's both slightly punky and slightly princess, so it looks good on many different types of women." The trick, he says, is simply knowing which shade to choose and what other makeup to pair it with. And with that, I give you Lloyd's foolproof tips for wearing pink eye shadow:
1. Beware of red. "The closer the shadow color veers toward red, the trickier it is to wear," says Lloyd, who recommends a pale, bluish-pink shadow if you’re fair (try the pale pink from YSL 5 Colour shadow palette in No. 2 Indian Pink); a vibrant flamingo pink for olive skin (such as the bright pink in Lancôme Color Design 5 Shadow palette in Pink Envy); and a warmer, more coral-y pink for dark skin (Shu Uemura Glow On Blush in M55 Matte Blushed Orange also works beautifully on eyes). "And the true hot pinks look especially gorgeous on Latina skin," says Lloyd.
2. Wing it. Pink shadow is meant to be daring, so Lloyd recommends brushing the shadow on your lids and dragging it out slightly past the outer corners of your eyes, similar to how it's worn in the photo above. "It gives the color even more impact," he says.
3. Mix it with black. "This is true of any bright shadow: You need to pair it with black eyeliner or, at the very least, a lot of black mascara. The black anchors the look and defines your eyes so you're not just seeing pink against bare skin, which can make you appear sickly," says Lloyd, adding that if black pencil looks too heavy, you can use a chocolate brown one instead. Try YSL Eye Pencil in No. 1 Velvet Black or No. 2 Leather Brown and Volume Effet Faux Cils Mascara.
4. Go monotone. Pink is one of the few bold colors that looks pretty when worn together on eyes and lips. "In Japan, the girls are wearing hot pink shadow with an equally bright pink or coral lipstick," says Lloyd. Try YSL Rouge Volupté Lipstick in No. 10 Provocative Pink or No. 15 Extreme Coral. "For a less eccentric look, go with a sheer lavender-pink lipstick like YSL Rouge Pur Shine in No. 11 Pink Diamond," he says. Then on your cheeks, apply a faint layer of natural pink blush, such as YSL Créme de Blush in No. 2 Powdery Rose. "You want a slight flush so you’re not washed out by the strong eye and lip colors," says Lloyd.
5. When in doubt, go sheer. If a heavily-pigmented shadow is too much color for you, try dabbing a hot pink cream blush on your lids instead. "The new YSL Créme de Blush in No. 5 Fuschia Temptation is the perfect color," says Lloyd. "The cream texture is less intense than a velvety powder and creates a fresher, more spring-like look." To prevent fading, Lloyd advises priming lids first with YSL Touche Éclat, patting on the blush, then setting it with a dusting of translucent powder.