Jennifer Hirshlag Feb 8, 2013
With the news that Jason Wu is partnering with Lancôme to do a limited-edition makeup collection for September, we couldn't wait to see what would be in store for the beauty look at the fall 2013 ready-to-wear presentation during New York Fashion Week. Our high expectations were not let down with a highly pigmented violet-blue eye that makeup artist Diane Kendal said was feminine and powerful, and bold when paired with hairstylist Odile Gilbert's super-sculpted chignon. Kendal said the inspiration for the makeup came from a swatch of electric fabric Wu was using in the collection. Based on that color, she turned to Lancôme Le Crayon Khôl EyeLiner in Purple DuskColor Design Infinité 24H Crease-Free Luminous Eye Shadow in Vibrant Violet and a new indigo shadow that will be offered as part of the collaborative launch. Starting with the liner, Kendal and her team drew color in layer upon layer, first directly above models's upper lashes and in the creases, and then eventually filling in the exaggerated cat-eye shape. While they left the inner corners bare, they also painted the lower lash line for a fully rimmed, graphic effect. They then went in with the shadows, brushing the shimmery hues all over the liner and smoking out the shape subtly. The team finally curled lashes, brushed Lancôme Liner Design Long Wear Calligraphy Gel EyeLiner in Violet Stylista into the lash lines and swiped on Lancôme Hypnôse Drama Mascara. For the complexion, they brushed on Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra 24H Foundation. They then contoured the face, using a lighter formula on the high points of the face and a darker one under models's cheekbones, hairline and jawline. They dabbed on Lancôme Absolue Radiant Smoothing Powder and Translucence Mattifying Silky Pressed Powder over the T-zone. Using Lancôme Blush Subtil Palette, the team then lifted up the middle color in the trio to add color to the apples of the cheeks, the lighter color in the trio to add a subtle golden shimmer to the tops of cheekbones and the darker color to further contour under the cheekbones. They left lips nearly bare, fully moisturized with balm for a quenched pout. Gilbert said she wanted the hair to have an Art Deco feel—"elegant, chic and shiny." To start the intricate look, she coated dry hair with Kérastase Ciment Thermique and Elixir Ultime Moringa Immortel. She then sectioned off strands at the nape of the neck, braiding them and coiling the braid to form a base. She then folded the back strands over the braid, tucking and rolling them to the side. For the origami effect, 3-inch sections from the front were combed straight, doused with Kérastase Double Force Controle Ultime hair spray and wrapped like ribbons precisely about the head. Gilbert accented the look with two silver barrettes for what she called a touch of modernity. The beauty look was rounded out by soft pink nails, courtesy of Lancôme Vernis in Love in Jolis Matins.




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