When it comes to shadow colors for the year ahead, pink is quickly becoming a must-have hue. Designers like Donna Karan, Bibhu Mohapatra, Creatures of the Wind, Unique and Chris Benz dressed eyes in striking variations from soft pastel to avant-garde neon on their spring 2013 ready-to-wear runways. We caught up with Daniel Martin, the makeup artist behind Benz's look, to find out how to create wearable and pretty peepers in pink.
Martin says for Benz's makeup he was inspired by Japanese horror films and seventies musician Tiny Tim. The result was haunting and ethereal, with sheer petal pigment surrounding the eyes and dusting the cheekbones, minimalist lashes and translucent lips. But this dramatic interpretation is only one way of working with the shade. "There are no rules for wearing this color on the eyes for spring," he says. If you are looking for a lighter, sheerer touch, here are his step-by-step tips.
Step 1: To prime the eye area and neutralize any ruddiness in your skin that could compete with the pink hue, use an undereye concealer. Try:Lancôme Effacernes Waterproof Protective Undereye Concealer.
Step 2: Select the right shade of pink for your skin tone. "For fair skin tones, wear a pale matte pink," Martin says. Try: Make Up For Ever Eye Shadow in Pearly Baby Pink. "Medium skin tones look great with a shimmery pink," he adds. Try:Lancôme Color Design Infinité 24H Eye Shadow in Perpetual Pink. Finally, he says, "deep skin tones look great with something brighter and more matte, like a fuchsia or magenta." Try: Sugarpill Pressed Eye Shadow in Dollipop.
Step 3: Use a small blush brush to apply the eye shadow all over your eye area, bringing the color down to your cheeks.
Step 4: Add depth by using a deeper shade of mauve-brown in the creases of your eyes. Try:Giorgio Armani Eyes to Kill Eyeshadow Quad in Parma, which includes a mauve-brown.
Step 5: For a brighter look and to minimize the pink in your waterline, use a white or cream liner to draw along the area. Try:Lancôme Le Crayon Khôl in Blanc.
Step 6: To balance a dramatic eye, a light swipe of mascara, a minimal cheek and a glossy lip are always a safe bet, Martin says. For a minimal lip, try YSL Volupté Sheer Candy in Tangy Manderine.