Christiana Molina Feb 16, 2013
Inspired by his recent trip to St. Petersburg, Zang Toi set out to bring the luxury of the Peterhof's Grand Ballroom to life with a collection that revolved around "a modern take on Imperial Russia." Dovetailing directly off the theme was an opulent beauty look that featured glamorous textures and sparkling jewel tones galore. To revive dull and tired skin, the complexion was first prepped with VBeauté's Undercover Agent Anti-Wrinkle Protecting Serum and Buying Time Everyday Crème for hydration and luminosity. Eyes were then primed with VBeauté Eye Never Nourishing Repair Eye Crème to lift lids and banish dark circles. Taking cue from the intricacy of a Fabergé egg, makeup artist Rudy Miles focused on sectioned off, smoky gilded eyes. He first framed eyes by cutting creases and coloring the inner and outer corners of lids with a black eyeliner pencil. Miles blended out the harsh pencil with a black shadow from the Zang Toi for Amazing Cosmetics Eye Shadow Palette. He then patted a bronze shadow onto the middle of lids, and blended the bronze shade and a copper color above creases and onto brow bones for a moodier twist on a highlighter. Next came multiple coats of Amazing Cosmetics Amazing Mascara on top and bottom lashes, topped off with faux fringe glued to the outer half of eyes. Because there was so much dark color on lids, Miles decided to nix filling in brows with even more harsh hues and instead just brushed them through with brow gel. He then shaded the lower lash lines and water lines with the same black liner and shadow. Miles crafted a pristine complexion with a mixture of concealer, foundation and powder for a semi-matte finish. After slightly contouring the hollows of cheeks with Amazing Cosmetics Bronzer, he created nude lips with a mixture of the model's foundation and lip balm for a truly flesh-toned shade. In an indirect nod to the big fur hats often seen in Russia, hairstylist Eiji Yamane sculpted towering, wide updos that were overflowing with curls. Yamane began by applying René Furterer Vegetal Sculpting Gel to wet strands to enhance and hold the curls that were so central to the look. After blow-drying, he fashioned an off-center part and pulled the front sections of hair tightly to the head before curling the rest of the mane with half-inch and three quarter-inch barrels for tight spirals. Once the entire head was covered in coils, Yamane pinned pre-curled extensions into the hair and then piled all the corkscrews onto the crown of the head. To make the updos even wider, he stuffed the nest of swirls with coarse "filler" hair, which created an asymmetrical shape and interesting texture. Yamane then added frizz to the curls by spraying them with René Furterer Naturia Dry Shampoo and rubbing each strand with his fingers. Next, he set the style with the brand's Vegetal Finishing Spray for a touchably soft yet long-lasting hold. Yamane finally rubbed the Styling Wax onto the front strands to make the parted hair look sleek, which counterbalanced the textured spirals. Color developer Rebecca Isa decided to imitate the jewel hues in the collection with customized gem tones for nails. She crafted three refined metallic polishes specifically for the show with "liquid glass crystal suspension," which had a slight color-shifting effect when hands moved. Shades included the amethyst Zoya Nail Polish in Imperial Russia, the emerald Chinoiserie Fantasy, the sapphire Catherine the Great (available in the fall), and the metallic gold leaf Peterhof Palace. After prepping natural-shaped nails with a base coat, Isa painted two coats on hands with one of the four hues and then sealed the polish with a top coat. She then placed a large Swarovski crystal in a complementary shade near the cuticle at the center of each nail to reflect the luxe embellishments in the collection.




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