A Guide to Different Lip Shapes — Plus, Makeup Tips to Try

December 13, 2023
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By: Makeup.com | Makeup.com by L'Oréal
Person applying lip gloss to their lips

Have you ever stopped to consider your lip shape? Lips come in all different shapes and sizes, from full lips to downturned lips and more. Just like your face shape or eye shape might affect your makeup application techniques, so can your lip shape. While we at Makeup.com are in support of trying any makeup looks you want, there are some different tips and tricks you can use to complement your specific features, including your lip shape. With the help of makeup artist and LYS Beauty founder Tisha Thompson, we put together a lip shape guide complete with makeup tips and ideas for looks. 

Types of Lip Shapes

Full Lips

Full lips are essentially what they sound like — “naturally plump and well-defined lips,” says Thompson. 

Makeup Tips for Full Lips

If you have full lips, try a high-impact, contrasted lip liner look. “Use lip liners one to two shades darker than your natural lip color to define the edges slightly,” recommends Thompson. “To enhance their natural fullness, apply a lip oil or gloss for a high-shine finish.” We love the clear version of the NYX Professional Makeup Fat Oil Lip Drip.

NYX Professional Makeup Fat Oil Lip Drip

Heavy Upper Lips

If you have “more volume in the upper lip compared to the lower lip,” says Thompson, you might have heavy upper lips.  

Makeup Tips for Heavy Upper Lips

Your makeup can come in handy when you’re in the mood to create the appearance of more symmetrical lips. “Apply a slightly darker shade of lip liner on the lower lip to balance the proportions,” says Thompson. “Use lighter or nude shades on the upper lip to minimize the appearance of volume.” Another useful tool? Bronzer. “Apply bronzer below the bottom lip line and buff seamlessly to give the appearance of a poutier look,” she suggests. 

Heavy Lower Lips

As you’ve probably guessed, heavy lower lips are the opposite of heavy upper lips. This lip shape is when your bottom lip is fuller than your top lip. 

Makeup Tips for Heavy Lower Lips

Similar to Thompson’s recommended technique for heavy upper lips, you can use lip liner to balance out heavy lower lips. “Use a slightly darker lip liner shade to define the upper lip and create the illusion of more volume,” she says. “Choose lighter shades for the lower lip to balance the overall look.”

Thin Lips

Again, thin lips are fairly self-explanatory. If you have thin lips, you will have less volume and definition. 

Makeup Tips for Thin Lips

Overlining your lips is a makeup artist hack that you may want to try if your lips are on the thinner side. “Use a lip liner slightly darker than your natural lip shade to carefully overline the lips for a fuller appearance,” says Thompson. “Choose lighter, brighter shades or use lip gloss to add dimension and create the illusion of fullness.” In the market for a new lip liner? You’ll adore the velvety smooth feel of the Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Waterproof Lip Liner

Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Waterproof Lip Liner

Wide Lips

Wide lips “extend horizontally,” says Thompson, giving your mouth a more elongated look. This lip shape won’t have as much height from top to bottom as some other shapes on this list. 

Makeup Tips for Wide Lips

For wide lips, Thompson recommends focusing on the cupid’s bow and using lip liner to define the center of the lips. “Opt for darker shades or bold colors on the corners, while applying lighter shades to the center of the lips to draw attention inwards,” she says.

Round Lips

Round lips occur when your lips are close to or as wide from corner to corner as they are from top to bottom, forming a rounded shape. According to Thompson, those with round lips often have a naturally well-defined cupid’s bow.

Makeup Tips for Round Lips

“Enhance the cupid's bow with a lip liner slightly darker than the natural lip color,” advises Thompson. “Apply a touch of gloss or highlighter on the center of the lips for added dimension.” 

Downturned Lips

If the corners of your lips turn downwards, you likely have downturned lips. 

Makeup Tips for Downturned Lips

Once again, lip liner is going to be your best friend. “Use a lip liner to slightly lift the outer corners of the lips,” says Thompson. If lip liner isn’t your thing, Thompson also likes enhancing downturned lips with a bright, bold lip color. We love the Giorgio Armani Beauty Lip Power Longwear Satin Lipstick in 400, a red shade with a hint of hot pink.

Bow Lips

Bow-shaped lips are all about the cupid’s bow — duh. If you have pronounced cupid’s bow, paired with a wide, full bottom lip, you might have bow-shaped lips. 

Makeup Tips for Bow Lips

“Emphasize the cupid's bow with a lip liner,” says Thompson. “Fill in the lines with a matte or glossy lip product of your liking.” Our fave matte lippie right now is the L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Intense Volume Matte Lipstick.

L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Intense Volume Matte Lipstick

Heart-Shaped Lips

Heart-shaped lips are “fuller on the upper lip with a pronounced cupid's bow, tapering down to a narrower lower lip,” says Thompson. Picture an illustration of a heart.

Makeup Tips for Heart-Shaped Lips

With heart-shaped lips, Thompson likes to play up the natural fullness of the upper lip with concentrated liner. “Experiment with a variety of lip colors, but avoid overlining the lower lip to maintain the heart shape,” she says.

Photographer: Chaunte Vaughn

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