How Lip Plumpers Really Work, Straight From a Chemist

Lip plumpers are abundant in the makeup universe and if you use them regularly, you’re no stranger to their familiar *tingling* sensation they provide. Although many of us crave fuller lips now and again, sometimes it makes us wonder what really is in the formulation of these magical lip-plumping products — what ingredients make it work? Fortunately, L’Oréal Associate Principal Chemist Roselin Rosario has answers to our lip-plumping queries. Ahead, find everything you need to know.

How Are Lip Plumpers Formulated?

Because lip plumpers are a part of the lipstick family, they are formulated in a similar way, but Rosario notes that there is one main difference: the addition of plumping ingredients. “Plumping ingredients such as capsaicin are included, as well as hydration ingredients to improve the overall look of the lips, and high shine for a volumized lip look,” she says. The plumping ingredients are included at specific concentrations to ensure their safety. 

Key Ingredients in Lip Plumpers

These ingredients are key in building lip plumpers differently from regular lip products, according to Rosario. “Lip plumpers contain active ingredients that cause plumping, which a normal lipstick does not contain,” she says. “Most plumping ingredients work by causing a temporary mild irritation of the lips.” 

Capsaicin is often used, which is a compound found in hot peppers, as well as ingredients like peppermint and ginger that also cause a similar effect. “The tingling sensation is from these ingredients, and it indicates that they’re working!” Rosario adds. 

Are Lip Plumpers Safe?

Like makeup products from reputable companies, lip plumpers are thoroughly tested for safety and claims. “Tests are performed to ensure that the plumpers are safe to use and would not cause undesirable side-effects to healthy individuals using the product recommended,” says Rosario. The lip plumpers are also tested for efficacy — to ensure that they really work!

Why You Should Never DIY a Lip Plumper

While lip plumping is meant for mild, temporary irritation, Rosario warns against trying a DIY version at home. “People interested in lip plumping should choose a product from a reputable brand, because DIY-ing a lip plumper without knowing the right concentration of an active ingredient and safety testing can cause mild irritation to turn into a serious effect,” she says. For a few of our favorite plumping lip products, keep reading.

Our Favorite Lip Plumpers

NYX Professional Makeup Filler Instinct Plumping Lip Polish Gloss

This lip gloss offers a coat of plumping, lustrous shine and a subtle tingling effect. It comes in six sheer shades that sparkle on their own or make great plumping lip toppers that can be layered over your favorite lipstick. 

L'Oréal Paris Infallible Pro Plump Lip Gloss with Hyaluronic Acid

For plumper lips without the tingling feeling, reach for a lip gloss that enhances your lips’ volume with hyaluronic acid, like this formula. It hydrates your lips, making them appear instantly smoother and fuller. 

NYX Professional Makeup Filler Instinct Plumping Lip Color

This glossy balm-meets-lipstick hybrid imparts our lips with a juicy shine and boost of fullness. The hyaluronic acid-infused formula offers up to eight hours of hydration. 

Lawless Beauty Forget the Filler Lip Plumping Line Smoothing Gloss

Get the look of smooth, shiny and plump lips with this gloss. Active ingredients include a trademarked plumping complex along with shea butter and rosehip oil to keep lips soft and supple. 

Photo: Chaunte Vaughn